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Investigation of In vitro Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Collagenase, Anti-Elastase and Anti-Hyaluronidase Effects of New Generation Cosmetic Peptide Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) Molecule

Year 2023, Volume: 14 Issue: 2, 227 - 234, 15.08.2023

Basak Gokce

https://doi.org/10.22312/sdusbed.1330756

Abstract

This study was designed to evaluate the alteration of the new generation cosmetic peptide argireline molecule on some enzyme activities involved in skin aging processes. Tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase enzymes are the enzymes that attract attention due to their direct and therapeutic effects in skin aging. High elastase inhibition anti-wrinkle, tyrosinase inhibition whitening effect, collagenase inhibition elasticity and hyaluronidase inhibition anti-inflammation effect. For this reason, the effectiveness of the argireline molecule, which has been used as a trend in cosmetics recently, has been studied. Considering the overall activities tested, the argireline compound was judged to be a promising anti-aging compound.

Keywords

Argireline tyrosinase collegenase elastase and hyaluronidase

References

  • [1] Ruiz, M. A., Clares, B., Morales, M. E., Cazalla, S., & Gallardo, V. 2007. Preparation and stability of cosmetic formulations with an anti-aging peptide. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(2), 157-171.
  • [2] Schagen, S. K. 2017. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16.
  • [3] Lee, K. K., Cho, J. J., Park, E. J., & Choi, J. D. 2001. Anti‐elastase and anti‐hyaluronidase of phenolic substance from Areca catechu as a new anti-aging agent. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 23(6), 341-346.
  • [4] Farage, M. A., Miller, K. W., Elsner, P., & Maibach, H. I. 2013. Characteristics of the aging skin. Advances in Wound Care, 2(1), 5-10.
  • [5] Godinho, M. S., Thorpe, C. T., Greenwald, S. E., & Screen, H. R. 2021. Elastase treatment of tendon specifically impacts the mechanical properties of the interfascicular matrix. Acta Biomaterialia, 123, 187-196.
  • [6] Navneet, S., Brandon, C., Simpson, K., & Rohrer, B. 2023. Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Elastase Inhibition in Age-Related Macular Degeneration in Mouse and Human. Cells, 12(9), 1308.
  • [7] Feng, M., Zheng, X., Wan, J., Pan, W., Xie, X., Hu, B., ... & Cai, S. 2021. Research progress on the potential delaying skin aging effect and mechanism of tea for oral and external use. Food & Function, 12(7), 2814-2828.
  • [8] Hetta, M. 2020. Hyaluronidase inhibitors as skin rejuvenating agents from natural source. International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients, 7(1), 4-4.
  • [9] Chiocchio, I., Mandrone, M., Sanna, C., Maxia, A., Tacchini, M., & Poli, F. J. I. C. 2018. Screening of a hundred plant extracts as tyrosinase and elastase inhibitors, two enzymatic targets of cosmetic interest. Industrial Crops and Products, 122, 498-505.
  • [10] Chen, C. Y., Lin, L. C., Yang, W. F., Bordon, J., & D Wang, H. M. 2015. An updated organic classification of tyrosinase inhibitors on melanin biosynthesis. Current Organic Chemistry, 19(1), 4-18.
  • [11] Kluczyk, A., Ludwiczak, J., Modzel, M., Kuczer, M., Cebrat, M., Biernat, M., & Bąchor, R. 2021. Argireline: Needle‐Free Botox as Analytical Challenge. Chemistry & Biodiversity, 18(3), e2000992.
  • [12] Wang, Y., Wang, M., Xiao, X. S., Huo, J., & Zhang, W. D. 2013. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of Argireline. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 15(4), 237-241.
  • [13] Demir, D., Gençer, N., & Er, A. 2012. Purification and characterization of prophenoloxidase from Galleria mellonella L. Artificial Cells, Blood Substitutes, and Biotechnology, 40(6), 391-395.
  • [14] Espín, J. C., Morales, M., Varón, R., Tudela, J., & Garciacanovas, F. 1995. A continuous spectrophotometric method for determining the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of apple polyphenol oxidase. Analytical Biochemistry, 231(1), 237-246.
  • [15] Van Wart HE, Steinbrink DR. 1981. A continuous spectrophotometric assay for Clostridium histolyticum collagenase. Analytical Biochemistry, 113:356-365.
  • [16] Chompoo, J.; Upadhyay, A.; Fukuta, M.; Tawata, S. 2012. Effect of Alpinia zerumbet components on antioxidant and skin diseasesrelated enzymes. BMC Complementary Alternative Medicine Journal. 12, 106
  • [17] Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. 2009. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327-345.
  • [18] Wang, Y., Wang, M., Xiao, S., Pan, P., Li, P., & Huo, J. 2013. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 14, 147-153.
  • [19] Belsito, M. D., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., Marks Jr, J. G., & Peterson, L. A. 2020. Safety Assessment of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Amide as Used in Cosmetics.
  • [20] Cabanes, J., Chazarra, S., & Garcia-Carmona, F. 1994. Kojic acid, a cosmetic skin whitening agent, is a slow-binding inhibitor of catecholase activity of tyrosinase. Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, 46(12), 982-985.
  • [21] Makimura, M., Hirasawa, M., Kobayashi, K., Indo, J., Sakanaka, S., Taguchi, T., & Otake, S. 1993. Inhibitory effect of tea catechins on collagenase activity. Journal of Periodontology, 64(7), 630-636.
  • [22] Facino, R. M., Carini, M., Stefani, R., Aldini, G., & Saibene, L. 1995. Anti‐elastase and anti‐hyaluronidase activities of saponins and sapogenins from Hedera helix, Aesculus hippocastanum, and Ruscus aculeatus: factors contributing to their efficacy in the treatment of venous insufficiency. Archiv der Pharmazie, 328(10), 720-724.
  • [23] Ahsan, F., Arnold, J. J., Meezan, E., & Pillion, D. J. 2003. Sucrose cocoate, a component of cosmetic preparations, enhances nasal and ocular peptide absorption. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 251(1-2), 195-203.
  • [24] Jung, H.J.; Noh, S.G.; Park, Y.; Kang, D.; Chun, P.; Chung, H.Y.; Moon, H.R. 2019. In vitro and in silico insights into tyrosinase inhibitors with (E)-benzylidene-1-indanone derivatives. Computational and Structural Biotechnology Journal, J. 17, 1255–1264.
  • [25] Pintus, F., Floris, S., Fais, A., Era, B., Porcedda, C., Tuberoso, C. I. G., & Caddeo, C. 2022. Euphorbia characias Extract: Inhibition of Skin Aging-Related Enzymes and Nanoformulation. Plants, 11(14), 1849.
  • [26] Widowati, W., Ginting, C. N., Lister, I. N. E., Girsang, E., Amalia, A., Wibowo, S. H. B., & Kusuma, H. S. W. 2020. Anti-aging effects of mangosteen peel extract and its phytochemical compounds: Antioxidant activity, enzyme inhibition and molecular docking simulation. Tropical Life Sciences Research, 31(3), 127.
  • [27] Alipour, H., Raz, A., Zakeri, S., & Djadid, N. D. 2016. Therapeutic applications of collagenase (metalloproteases): A review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 6(11), 975-981.
  • [28] Pham, C. H., Collier, Z. J., Fang, M., Howell, A., & Gillenwater, T. J. 2019. The role of collagenase ointment in acute burns: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of Wound Care, 28(Sup2), S9-S15
  • [29] Papaemmanouil, C. D., Peña-García, J., Banegas-Luna, A. J., Kostagianni, A. D., Gerothanassis, I. P., Pérez-Sánchez, H., & Tzakos, A. G. 2022. ANTIAGE-DB: A database and server for the prediction of anti-aging compounds targeting elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. Antioxidants, 11(11), 2268.
  • [30] Mortazavi, S. M., & Moghimi, H. R. 2022. Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti‐wrinkle peptide performance. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(2), 232-248.

Yeni Nesil Kozmetik Peptid Argireline (Asetil heksapeptid-8) Molekülünün in vitro Anti-Tirozinaz, Anti-Kollajenaz, Anti-Elastaz ve Anti Hyalüronidaz Etkilerinin Araştırılması

Year 2023, Volume: 14 Issue: 2, 227 - 234, 15.08.2023

Basak Gokce

https://doi.org/10.22312/sdusbed.1330756

Abstract

Bu çalışma, yeni nesil kozmetik peptid argireline molekülünün cilt yaşlanma süreçlerinde yer alan bazı enzim aktiviteleri üzerindeki değişimini değerlendirmek için tasarlanmıştır. Tirozinaz, kolejenaz, elastaz ve hiyalüronidaz enzimleri cilt yaşlanmasında, doğrudan ve terapötik etkileri nedeniyle dikkat çeken enzimlerdir. Yüksek elastaz inhibisyonu kırışıklık önleyici, tirozinaz inhibisyonu beyazlatma etkili, kolejenaz inhibisyonu esneklik ve hyalüronidaz inhibisyonu anti-inflamasyon etkisi göstermektedir. Bu nedenle, son dönemlerde kozmetikte trend olarak kullanılan argireline molekülünün, etkinliği çalışılmıştır. Test edilen genel aktiviteler göz önüne alındığında, argireline bileşiğinin umut verici yaşlanma karşıtı bileşik olduğu değerlendirilmiştir.

Keywords

Argireline tirozinaz kollajenaz elastaz ve hyalüronidaz

References

  • [1] Ruiz, M. A., Clares, B., Morales, M. E., Cazalla, S., & Gallardo, V. 2007. Preparation and stability of cosmetic formulations with an anti-aging peptide. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(2), 157-171.
  • [2] Schagen, S. K. 2017. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16.
  • [3] Lee, K. K., Cho, J. J., Park, E. J., & Choi, J. D. 2001. Anti‐elastase and anti‐hyaluronidase of phenolic substance from Areca catechu as a new anti-aging agent. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 23(6), 341-346.
  • [4] Farage, M. A., Miller, K. W., Elsner, P., & Maibach, H. I. 2013. Characteristics of the aging skin. Advances in Wound Care, 2(1), 5-10.
  • [5] Godinho, M. S., Thorpe, C. T., Greenwald, S. E., & Screen, H. R. 2021. Elastase treatment of tendon specifically impacts the mechanical properties of the interfascicular matrix. Acta Biomaterialia, 123, 187-196.
  • [6] Navneet, S., Brandon, C., Simpson, K., & Rohrer, B. 2023. Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Elastase Inhibition in Age-Related Macular Degeneration in Mouse and Human. Cells, 12(9), 1308.
  • [7] Feng, M., Zheng, X., Wan, J., Pan, W., Xie, X., Hu, B., ... & Cai, S. 2021. Research progress on the potential delaying skin aging effect and mechanism of tea for oral and external use. Food & Function, 12(7), 2814-2828.
  • [8] Hetta, M. 2020. Hyaluronidase inhibitors as skin rejuvenating agents from natural source. International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients, 7(1), 4-4.
  • [9] Chiocchio, I., Mandrone, M., Sanna, C., Maxia, A., Tacchini, M., & Poli, F. J. I. C. 2018. Screening of a hundred plant extracts as tyrosinase and elastase inhibitors, two enzymatic targets of cosmetic interest. Industrial Crops and Products, 122, 498-505.
  • [10] Chen, C. Y., Lin, L. C., Yang, W. F., Bordon, J., & D Wang, H. M. 2015. An updated organic classification of tyrosinase inhibitors on melanin biosynthesis. Current Organic Chemistry, 19(1), 4-18.
  • [11] Kluczyk, A., Ludwiczak, J., Modzel, M., Kuczer, M., Cebrat, M., Biernat, M., & Bąchor, R. 2021. Argireline: Needle‐Free Botox as Analytical Challenge. Chemistry & Biodiversity, 18(3), e2000992.
  • [12] Wang, Y., Wang, M., Xiao, X. S., Huo, J., & Zhang, W. D. 2013. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of Argireline. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 15(4), 237-241.
  • [13] Demir, D., Gençer, N., & Er, A. 2012. Purification and characterization of prophenoloxidase from Galleria mellonella L. Artificial Cells, Blood Substitutes, and Biotechnology, 40(6), 391-395.
  • [14] Espín, J. C., Morales, M., Varón, R., Tudela, J., & Garciacanovas, F. 1995. A continuous spectrophotometric method for determining the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of apple polyphenol oxidase. Analytical Biochemistry, 231(1), 237-246.
  • [15] Van Wart HE, Steinbrink DR. 1981. A continuous spectrophotometric assay for Clostridium histolyticum collagenase. Analytical Biochemistry, 113:356-365.
  • [16] Chompoo, J.; Upadhyay, A.; Fukuta, M.; Tawata, S. 2012. Effect of Alpinia zerumbet components on antioxidant and skin diseasesrelated enzymes. BMC Complementary Alternative Medicine Journal. 12, 106
  • [17] Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. 2009. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327-345.
  • [18] Wang, Y., Wang, M., Xiao, S., Pan, P., Li, P., & Huo, J. 2013. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 14, 147-153.
  • [19] Belsito, M. D., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., Marks Jr, J. G., & Peterson, L. A. 2020. Safety Assessment of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Amide as Used in Cosmetics.
  • [20] Cabanes, J., Chazarra, S., & Garcia-Carmona, F. 1994. Kojic acid, a cosmetic skin whitening agent, is a slow-binding inhibitor of catecholase activity of tyrosinase. Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, 46(12), 982-985.
  • [21] Makimura, M., Hirasawa, M., Kobayashi, K., Indo, J., Sakanaka, S., Taguchi, T., & Otake, S. 1993. Inhibitory effect of tea catechins on collagenase activity. Journal of Periodontology, 64(7), 630-636.
  • [22] Facino, R. M., Carini, M., Stefani, R., Aldini, G., & Saibene, L. 1995. Anti‐elastase and anti‐hyaluronidase activities of saponins and sapogenins from Hedera helix, Aesculus hippocastanum, and Ruscus aculeatus: factors contributing to their efficacy in the treatment of venous insufficiency. Archiv der Pharmazie, 328(10), 720-724.
  • [23] Ahsan, F., Arnold, J. J., Meezan, E., & Pillion, D. J. 2003. Sucrose cocoate, a component of cosmetic preparations, enhances nasal and ocular peptide absorption. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 251(1-2), 195-203.
  • [24] Jung, H.J.; Noh, S.G.; Park, Y.; Kang, D.; Chun, P.; Chung, H.Y.; Moon, H.R. 2019. In vitro and in silico insights into tyrosinase inhibitors with (E)-benzylidene-1-indanone derivatives. Computational and Structural Biotechnology Journal, J. 17, 1255–1264.
  • [25] Pintus, F., Floris, S., Fais, A., Era, B., Porcedda, C., Tuberoso, C. I. G., & Caddeo, C. 2022. Euphorbia characias Extract: Inhibition of Skin Aging-Related Enzymes and Nanoformulation. Plants, 11(14), 1849.
  • [26] Widowati, W., Ginting, C. N., Lister, I. N. E., Girsang, E., Amalia, A., Wibowo, S. H. B., & Kusuma, H. S. W. 2020. Anti-aging effects of mangosteen peel extract and its phytochemical compounds: Antioxidant activity, enzyme inhibition and molecular docking simulation. Tropical Life Sciences Research, 31(3), 127.
  • [27] Alipour, H., Raz, A., Zakeri, S., & Djadid, N. D. 2016. Therapeutic applications of collagenase (metalloproteases): A review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 6(11), 975-981.
  • [28] Pham, C. H., Collier, Z. J., Fang, M., Howell, A., & Gillenwater, T. J. 2019. The role of collagenase ointment in acute burns: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of Wound Care, 28(Sup2), S9-S15
  • [29] Papaemmanouil, C. D., Peña-García, J., Banegas-Luna, A. J., Kostagianni, A. D., Gerothanassis, I. P., Pérez-Sánchez, H., & Tzakos, A. G. 2022. ANTIAGE-DB: A database and server for the prediction of anti-aging compounds targeting elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. Antioxidants, 11(11), 2268.
  • [30] Mortazavi, S. M., & Moghimi, H. R. 2022. Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti‐wrinkle peptide performance. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(2), 232-248.
There are 30 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language Turkish
Subjects Pharmaceutical Biochemistry
Journal Section Araştırma Articlesi
Authors

Basak Gokce 0000-0001-8548-9703

Publication Date August 15, 2023
Submission Date July 21, 2023
Published in Issue Year 2023 Volume: 14 Issue: 2

Cite

Vancouver Gokce B. Yeni Nesil Kozmetik Peptid Argireline (Asetil heksapeptid-8) Molekülünün in vitro Anti-Tirozinaz, Anti-Kollajenaz, Anti-Elastaz ve Anti Hyalüronidaz Etkilerinin Araştırılması. Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi Sağlık Bilimleri Dergisi. 2023;14(2):227-34.
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