DEVELOPMENT OF ELECTRONIC JACQUARD SAMPLING LOOM AND DETERMINATION OF OPTIMUM JACQUARD HEIGHT ACCORDING TO FABRIC WIDTH
Öz
This study performed a geometric analysis to determine the required jacquard tower height for the uniform distribution of shed height across the fabric width in jacquard weaving machines. The inclined path of the harness cords from the hook board to the harness board showed that the jacquard height is an important design parameter. The analyses investigated thatthe effect of jacquard height (25-200 cm) on the shed geometry for different fabric widths (varying from 20 to 200 cm). The analyses showed that the jacquard tower height is directly related to the fabric width and should be selected at optimal values based on the fabric width for the uniform distribution of the shed height. This geometric analysis was used to design of an electronic jacquard sampling loom with a 192-hook capacity and a maximum weaving width of 67.5 cm. A total of 960 warp yarns were controlled by connecting 5 harnesses to each hook. In the developed prototype, the jacquard tower height was determined to be 120 cm for a weaving width of 67.5 cm, and the shed height at the farthest point from the center was calculated as 4.31 cm. The geometric analysis and design parameters presented in this study can be used as a basis for designing jacquard weaving machines operating with different fabric widths.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Jacquard weaving Sampling loom Shedding Jacquard height Design parameters
Proje Numarası
FBA-2016-6295
Kaynakça
- 1. Adanur, S., 2001. Handbook of Weaving. CRC Press Publication, Boca Raton, FL, USA. s. 152-167
- 2. Seyam, A.M., 2011. Developments in Jacquard woven fabrics. Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures: Developments and Applications, 223.
- 3. Bauder, H.J., 2004. Entwicklung eines Hochleistungsharnisches für Luftdüsenwebmaschinen, Melliandtextilberichte 84:250-251.
- 4. Wagner, J.R. 1988. Designing and Equipment Requirements for Jacquard Weaving, Norristown, 250s
- 5. Kovačević, S. and Schwarz, I., 2015. Weaving complex patterns - from weaving looms to weaving machines. Textiles Progress Journal, https://doi.org/10.5772/61091
- 6. Ahmed, S., Alimuzzaman, S., & Haque, A., 2020. Effect of shed geometry on starting mark of woven fabric. Sn Applied Sciences, 2(4). https://doi.org/10.1007/s4
- 7. 2452-020-2384-1
- 8. Kostajnšek, K. and Bizjak, M., 2023. Estimation of permeability properties of technologically developed jacquard fabrics. Hemijska Industrija, 77(3), 191-202.
- 9. Cabral, I. and Souto, A., 2022. Dynamic qualities of smart textiles: study of stimuli magnitude with chromic pigments. Solid State Phenomena, 333, 97-106.
- 10. First, D., 2000. From Upholstery to Installation: Educating Designers and Artists Using an Electronic Jacquard Loom. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings.
- 11. Yang, C., Cui, B., Li, C., 2010. The Sample Loom Control System Based on PLC and The Configuration Software. International Conference on Electrical and Control Engineering, 25-27 Haziran, Wuhan/China. S. 2428-2431
- 12. Ala, D. M., Çelik, N., 2016. Bilgisayar Destekli Yarı-Otomatik Tasarlanmış ve Geliştirilmiş Yerli Bir Numune Dokuma Makinesi, Tekstil ve Mühendis, cilt 22, sayı 98, s. 17-23.
- 13. Yin, H., Yu, H., & Wang, L., 2021. Kinematic comparison of a heald frame driven by a rotary dobby with a cam-slider, a cam-link and a null modulator. Autex Research Journal, 21(3), 323-332.
- 14. Song, H., 2010. A study on dobby weave design using computer-aided weaving system. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 12(3), 272-278.
- 15. Şener, A., Koç, D., Yılmaz, K., Tosunoğlu, E., Çam, P., Gündübay, A., & Demirdelen, T., 2022. Chenille yarn production parameters improvement studies and evaluation of their effects. Çukurova Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Dergisi, 37(4), 1047-1060.
- 16. Seyam, A., Saleh, S., Sharkas, M., & AbouHashish, H., 2014. Shaped seamless woven garments. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 18(2), 96-107.
- 17. Arsoy, R. and Aslan, S., 2023. Design of electronically controlled jacquard machine for multi-shed weaving machines. Fibres and Textiles, 30(1), 99-104.
- 18. Lu, J., Zhang, F., & Zhang, L., 2023. Technological innovations of french jacquard silk weaving in the 19th century. Asian Social Science, 19(2), 94.
- 19. Bradbury, F., 1912. Jacquard Mechanism and Harness Mounting, F. King & Sons Ltd.
- 20. Seyam, A.M., 2008. Weaving and weaving preparation at ITMA 2007. Textile World January/February s.42-47.
- 21. Li, X., Wang, X., Li, J., & Chen, Z., 2014. Innovation of creative lady wear based on origami and jacquard. Advanced Materials Research, 1048, 268-271.
- 22. Önlü, N., 2022. The relief effects of thermoplastic structured-shrunken yarns on woven fabrics. Tekstil Ve Konfeksiyon, 32(2), 87-98. [22] Ng, F. and Zhou, J., 2009a. A study on figured double-face jacquard fabric with full-color effect. Textile Research Journal, 79(10), 930-936.
- 23. Ng, F. and Zhou, J., 2009b. Innovative layered-combination mode for digital jacquard fabric design. Textile Research Journal, 79(8), 737-743.
- 24. Jin, J., Yu, Y., Jin, Z., & Zhang, B., 2012. Design and implementation of electronic jacquard cylinder. Applied Mechanics and Materials, 220-223, 934-938.
- 25. Gao, M., Liu, Y., & Huang, J., 2014. Design of the automatic jacquard control system based on stm32f407.
- 26. Seyam, A.M., 2004b. ITMA 2003: Weaving technology. Textile World February, s.34-39.
- 27. Wang, J., Bin, Y., Huang, B., & Jin, Z., 2011. Design and development of polymeric optical fiber jacquard fabric with dynamic pattern display. Textile Research Journal, 82(10), 967-974.
- 28. Seyam, A.M., 2000. Advances in weaving and weaving preparation at ITMA 1999. Textile Progress Journal, 30(1/2), s.22-40.
- 29. Kaplan, M., Ala, D.M., Çelik, N., 2019. Design of an Electronic Jacquard Sampling Loom, 2nd International Congress of Innovative Textiles, ICONTEX2019, 17-18 April 2019, Tekirdağ, Türkiye
Öz
Bu çalışmada, jakarlı dokuma makinelerinde ağızlık yüksekliğinin kumaş eni boyunca uniform dağılımı için gerekli jakar kulesi yüksekliğinin belirlenmesine yönelik geometrik bir analiz gerçekleştirilmiştir. Harniş kablolarının platin yatağından harniş tablasına kadar olan eğimli yolu, jakar yüksekliğinin önemli bir tasarım parametresi olduğunu göstermiştir. Yapılan analizlerde, farklı kumaş enleri (20-200 cm) için jakar yüksekliğinin (25-200 cm) ağızlık geometrisine etkisi incelenmiştir. Yapılan analizler, ağızlık yüksekliğinin uniform dağılımı için jakar kulesi yüksekliğinin kumaş eni ile doğrudan ilişkili olduğunu ve kumaş enine göre optimum değerlerde seçilmesi gerektiğini göstermiştir. Bu geometrik analiz, 192 kancalı ve maksimum 67,5 cm dokuma enine sahip bir elektronik jakarlı numune dokuma makinesinin tasarımında kullanılmıştır. Her kancaya 5 harniş bağlanarak toplamda 960 çözgü ipliğinin kontrolü sağlanmıştır. Geliştirilen prototipte 67,5 cm dokuma eni için jakar kulesi yüksekliği 120 cm olarak belirlenmiş ve merkezden en uzak noktadaki ağızlık yüksekliği 4,31 cm olarak hesaplanmıştır. Bu çalışmada sunulan geometrik analiz ve tasarım parametreleri, farklı kumaş enlerinde çalışacak jakarlı dokuma makinelerinin tasarımında temel alınabilir.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Jakarlı dokuma Numune dokuma makinesi Ağızlık açma Jakar yüksekliği Tasarım parametreleri
Destekleyen Kurum
Çukurova Üniversitesi Bilimsel Araştırma Projeleri Birimi
Proje Numarası
FBA-2016-6295
Teşekkür
Bu çalışma, Çukurova Üniversitesi Bilimsel Araştırma Projeleri Birimi tarafından FBA-2016-6295 kodlu proje ile desteklenmiştir. Yazarlar ayrıca tüm teknik destekleri için Gülas-Makine'ye teşekkür eder.
Kaynakça
- 1. Adanur, S., 2001. Handbook of Weaving. CRC Press Publication, Boca Raton, FL, USA. s. 152-167
- 2. Seyam, A.M., 2011. Developments in Jacquard woven fabrics. Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures: Developments and Applications, 223.
- 3. Bauder, H.J., 2004. Entwicklung eines Hochleistungsharnisches für Luftdüsenwebmaschinen, Melliandtextilberichte 84:250-251.
- 4. Wagner, J.R. 1988. Designing and Equipment Requirements for Jacquard Weaving, Norristown, 250s
- 5. Kovačević, S. and Schwarz, I., 2015. Weaving complex patterns - from weaving looms to weaving machines. Textiles Progress Journal, https://doi.org/10.5772/61091
- 6. Ahmed, S., Alimuzzaman, S., & Haque, A., 2020. Effect of shed geometry on starting mark of woven fabric. Sn Applied Sciences, 2(4). https://doi.org/10.1007/s4
- 7. 2452-020-2384-1
- 8. Kostajnšek, K. and Bizjak, M., 2023. Estimation of permeability properties of technologically developed jacquard fabrics. Hemijska Industrija, 77(3), 191-202.
- 9. Cabral, I. and Souto, A., 2022. Dynamic qualities of smart textiles: study of stimuli magnitude with chromic pigments. Solid State Phenomena, 333, 97-106.
- 10. First, D., 2000. From Upholstery to Installation: Educating Designers and Artists Using an Electronic Jacquard Loom. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings.
- 11. Yang, C., Cui, B., Li, C., 2010. The Sample Loom Control System Based on PLC and The Configuration Software. International Conference on Electrical and Control Engineering, 25-27 Haziran, Wuhan/China. S. 2428-2431
- 12. Ala, D. M., Çelik, N., 2016. Bilgisayar Destekli Yarı-Otomatik Tasarlanmış ve Geliştirilmiş Yerli Bir Numune Dokuma Makinesi, Tekstil ve Mühendis, cilt 22, sayı 98, s. 17-23.
- 13. Yin, H., Yu, H., & Wang, L., 2021. Kinematic comparison of a heald frame driven by a rotary dobby with a cam-slider, a cam-link and a null modulator. Autex Research Journal, 21(3), 323-332.
- 14. Song, H., 2010. A study on dobby weave design using computer-aided weaving system. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 12(3), 272-278.
- 15. Şener, A., Koç, D., Yılmaz, K., Tosunoğlu, E., Çam, P., Gündübay, A., & Demirdelen, T., 2022. Chenille yarn production parameters improvement studies and evaluation of their effects. Çukurova Üniversitesi Mühendislik Fakültesi Dergisi, 37(4), 1047-1060.
- 16. Seyam, A., Saleh, S., Sharkas, M., & AbouHashish, H., 2014. Shaped seamless woven garments. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 18(2), 96-107.
- 17. Arsoy, R. and Aslan, S., 2023. Design of electronically controlled jacquard machine for multi-shed weaving machines. Fibres and Textiles, 30(1), 99-104.
- 18. Lu, J., Zhang, F., & Zhang, L., 2023. Technological innovations of french jacquard silk weaving in the 19th century. Asian Social Science, 19(2), 94.
- 19. Bradbury, F., 1912. Jacquard Mechanism and Harness Mounting, F. King & Sons Ltd.
- 20. Seyam, A.M., 2008. Weaving and weaving preparation at ITMA 2007. Textile World January/February s.42-47.
- 21. Li, X., Wang, X., Li, J., & Chen, Z., 2014. Innovation of creative lady wear based on origami and jacquard. Advanced Materials Research, 1048, 268-271.
- 22. Önlü, N., 2022. The relief effects of thermoplastic structured-shrunken yarns on woven fabrics. Tekstil Ve Konfeksiyon, 32(2), 87-98. [22] Ng, F. and Zhou, J., 2009a. A study on figured double-face jacquard fabric with full-color effect. Textile Research Journal, 79(10), 930-936.
- 23. Ng, F. and Zhou, J., 2009b. Innovative layered-combination mode for digital jacquard fabric design. Textile Research Journal, 79(8), 737-743.
- 24. Jin, J., Yu, Y., Jin, Z., & Zhang, B., 2012. Design and implementation of electronic jacquard cylinder. Applied Mechanics and Materials, 220-223, 934-938.
- 25. Gao, M., Liu, Y., & Huang, J., 2014. Design of the automatic jacquard control system based on stm32f407.
- 26. Seyam, A.M., 2004b. ITMA 2003: Weaving technology. Textile World February, s.34-39.
- 27. Wang, J., Bin, Y., Huang, B., & Jin, Z., 2011. Design and development of polymeric optical fiber jacquard fabric with dynamic pattern display. Textile Research Journal, 82(10), 967-974.
- 28. Seyam, A.M., 2000. Advances in weaving and weaving preparation at ITMA 1999. Textile Progress Journal, 30(1/2), s.22-40.
- 29. Kaplan, M., Ala, D.M., Çelik, N., 2019. Design of an Electronic Jacquard Sampling Loom, 2nd International Congress of Innovative Textiles, ICONTEX2019, 17-18 April 2019, Tekirdağ, Türkiye
Ayrıntılar
| Birincil Dil | Türkçe |
|---|---|
| Konular | Tekstil Teknolojisi |
| Bölüm | Makaleler |
| Yazarlar | |
| Proje Numarası | FBA-2016-6295 |
| Yayımlanma Tarihi | 30 Haziran 2025 |
| Gönderilme Tarihi | 12 Ocak 2025 |
| Kabul Tarihi | 21 Mayıs 2025 |
| Yayımlandığı Sayı | Yıl 2025 Cilt: 32 Sayı: 138 |