Araştırma Makalesi
Comparison of Cantilever, Heart Loop and Circular Bending Test Methods in Determining the Bending Behaviours of Sewn Woven Polyester Fabrics
Öz
Fabrics are cut and sewn to form 3-dimensional end-products. Bending rigidity is one of the properties that should be interpreted for sewn fabrics as it can affect drape, appearance and sensorial comfort of a garment. In the literature, there are several methods to measure the bending behaviours of fabrics. Parallelly, a variety of tests were employed for bending rigidity of sewn samples but their comparability for sewn samples are not known. In this study, 3 simple and standard test methods were used to compare the bending behaviours of fabrics with plied edge seams. Statistical analysis showed that, circular bend method had no or low correlation with cantilever and heart loop methods. Also any difference between the different types of sewn samples could not be detected by this method. In contrast, results of cantilever and heart loop methods showed low to moderate positive correlations for the bending lentghs and bending rigidities of samples.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Sewn fabric bending behaviour cantilever method heart loop method circular bending
Teşekkür
Author thanks the statistician and data scienstist Sibel ALKAN for her help in statistical analysis.
Kaynakça
- 1. Kurumer G. 2012. Konfeksiyon uretimi ve teknolojisi (2nd Press). Izmir: Printer Ofset Matbaacılık. 2. Jones I, Stylios GK. 2013. Joining textiles: Principles and applications. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 3. Fan J, Hunter L. 2009. Engineering apparel fabrics and garments. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 4. Namiranian R, Shaikhzadeh Najar S, Etrati SM, Manich AM. 2014. Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics under static loading. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 39(3), 221-229. 5. Choudhary AK, Goel A. 2013. Effect of some fabric and sewing conditions on apparel seam characteristics. Journal of Textiles 2013, 1-7. 6. Gurarda A. 2008. Investigation of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics. Textile Research Journal 78(1), 21-27. 7. Bharani M, Shiyamaladevi PSS, Mahendra Gowda RV. 2012. Characterization of seam strength and seam slippage on cotton fabric with woven structures and finish. Research Journal of Engineering Sciences 1(2), 41-50. 8. Sular V, Mesegul C, Kefsiz H, Seki Y. 2015. A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute 106(1), 19-30. 9. Citoglu F, Kaya G. 2011. Dikis iplik ozelliklerinin ve dikis sıkliklarinin farklı dikis acilarında dikis mukavemeti uzerine etkileri. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 21(2), 182-188. 10. Xin LU. 2010. Effect of sewing form and parameters on seam strength of silk fabric. Shanghai Textile Science & Technology 5, 17. 11. Ozdemir H, Yavuzkasap D. 2012. The effects of yarn and fabric structural parameters on the seam slippage, abrasion and pilling properties of double woven upholstery fabrics. Industria Textila 63(6), 307-314. 12. Yeşilpınar S, Bahar S. 2007. The effect of sewing and washing processes on the seam strength of denim trousers. AATCC review 7(10), 27-31. 13. Yeşilpınar S. 2006. Analysis of the performance of sewing threads manufactured from conventional and compact ring-spun yarns. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 14(2), 20-23. 14. Gribaa S, Ben Amar S, Dogui A. 2006. Influence of sewing parameters upon the tensile behavior of textile assembly. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18 (4), 235-246. 15. Chowdhary U, Poynor D. 2006. Impact of stitch density on seam strength, seam elongation, and seam efficiency. International Journal of Consumer Studies 30(6), 561-568. 16. Tarafder N, Karmakar R, Mondal M. 2007. The effect of stitch density on seam performance of garments stitched from plain and twill fabrics. Man-Made Textiles in India 50(8), 298-302. 17. Mukhopadhyay A, Sikka M, Karmakar AK. 2004. Impact of laundering on the seam tensile properties of suiting fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 16(4), 394-403. 18. Ünal BZ, Baykal PD. 2018. Determining the effects of different sewing threads and different washing types on fabric tensile and sewing strength properties. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 28(1), 34-42. 19. Islam M, Sarker TR, Islam MJ, Siddque N. 2019. Comparative analysis of seam strength, seam slippage and seam efficiency of lapped seam and edge neatening seam. Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology 5(5), 665-670. 20. Ateş M, Gürarda A, Çeven EK. 2019. Investigation of seam performance of chain stitch and lockstitch used in denim trousers. Tekstil ve Mühendis 26(115), 263-270. 21. Khan MR, Rasel M, Das D. 2020. Effect of thread count and stitch density (SPI) on 2/1 twill woven fabric. International Journal of Science and Business 4(3), 37-45. 22. Fairhurst C. 2008. Advances in apparel production. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 23. Kara S. 2020. Comparison of sewn fabric bending rigidities obtained by heart loop method: Effects of different stitching types and seam directions. Industria Textila 71(2), 105-111. 24. Gurarda A. 2009. The effects of seam parameters on the stiffness of woven fabrics. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 19(3), 242-247. 25. Megeid ZA, Ezzat MM, Elzaki GM. 2016. Studying the bending stiffness of polyester/linen fabric seams with different structures. International Journal of ChemTech Research 9(4), 01-06. 26. Hu J. Chung S. 2000. Bending behavior of woven fabrics with vertical seams. Textile Research Journal 70(2), 148-153. 27. Chung S, Hu J, Lo M. 1999. Effect of seam allowance of a plain seam on bending of woven fabrics. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 3(1), 54-64. 28. Mahar TJ, Ajiki I, Postle R. 1989. Fabric mechanical and physical properties relevant to clothing manufacture- Part 2: Structural balance, breaking elongation and curvature of seams. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 1(2), 5-10. 29. Macit AŞ, Tiber B. 2017. Evaluation of bending rigidity behaviour of ultrasonic seaming on woven fabrics. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering 254(13), 132002, 1-6. 30. Gupta BS, Leek FJ, Barker RL, Buchanan DR, Little TJ. 1992. Directional variations in fabric properties and seam quality. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 4(2/3), 71-78. 31. Ghosh, TK, Zhou N. 2003. Characterization of fabric bending behavior: A review of measurement principles. Indian Jounal of Fibre and Textile Research 28, 471-476. 32. Sanad RA, Cassidy T. 2015. Fabric objective measurement and drape. Textile Progress 47(4), 317-406. 33. Kayseri GÖ, Özdil N, Mengüç GS. 2012. Sensorial comfort of textile materials. In HY Jeon (Ed.), Woven fabrics. Croatia: Intech, 235-66. 34. Abbott NJ. 1951. The measurement of stiffness in textile fabrics. Textile Research Journal 21(6), 435-441. 35. Hynek WJ, Winston G. 1953. A comparative study of the Tinius Olsen and Peirce stiffness testers. Textile Research Journal 23(10), 743-748. 36. Takatera M, Shinohara A. 1996. An analysis to compare conventional methods for estimating bending rigidity of fabrics. Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 42(3-4), 86-92. 37. Naujokaitytė L, Strazdienė E, Fridrichova L. 2007. Comparative analysis of fabrics' bending behavior testing methods. Tekstil: Journal of Textile & Clothing Technology, 56(6), 343-349. 38. Harrabi L, Dolez PI, Vu-Khanh T, Lara J, Tremblay G, Nadeau S, Larivière C. 2008. Characterization of protective gloves stiffness: Development of a multidirectional deformation test method. Safety Science 46(7), 1025-1036. 39. Sun MN. 2008. A new tester and method for measuring fabric stiffness and drape. Textile Research Journal 78(9), 761-770. 40. Goetzendorf-Grabowska B, Karaszewska A, Vlasenko VI, Arabuli AT. 2014. Bending stiffness of knitted fabrics–comparison of test methods. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 22, 1(103), 43-50. 41. Musa ABH, Malengier B, Van Langenhove L, Stevens C. 2017. The reliability of the newly developed bending tester for the measurement of flexural rigidity of textile materials. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering 254(14), 142004, 1-6. 42. Plaut RH. 2020. Determining effective bending stiffness of fabrics and other materials from tests involving an added weight. Textile Research Journal 90(1), 101-109. 43. Peirce FT. 1930. The “handle” of cloth as a measurable quantity. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions 21(9), T377-T416. 44. ASTM D1388-18. 2018. Standard test method for stiffness of fabrics. West Conshohocken: ASTM International. 45. Hu J. 2004. Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 46. ASTM D4032 – 08. 2016. Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabric by the Circular Bend Procedure. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited.
Yıl 2021,
Cilt: 31 Sayı: 2, 82 - 90, 30.06.2021
Öz
Kaynakça
- 1. Kurumer G. 2012. Konfeksiyon uretimi ve teknolojisi (2nd Press). Izmir: Printer Ofset Matbaacılık. 2. Jones I, Stylios GK. 2013. Joining textiles: Principles and applications. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 3. Fan J, Hunter L. 2009. Engineering apparel fabrics and garments. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 4. Namiranian R, Shaikhzadeh Najar S, Etrati SM, Manich AM. 2014. Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics under static loading. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 39(3), 221-229. 5. Choudhary AK, Goel A. 2013. Effect of some fabric and sewing conditions on apparel seam characteristics. Journal of Textiles 2013, 1-7. 6. Gurarda A. 2008. Investigation of the seam performance of PET/nylon-elastane woven fabrics. Textile Research Journal 78(1), 21-27. 7. Bharani M, Shiyamaladevi PSS, Mahendra Gowda RV. 2012. Characterization of seam strength and seam slippage on cotton fabric with woven structures and finish. Research Journal of Engineering Sciences 1(2), 41-50. 8. Sular V, Mesegul C, Kefsiz H, Seki Y. 2015. A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute 106(1), 19-30. 9. Citoglu F, Kaya G. 2011. Dikis iplik ozelliklerinin ve dikis sıkliklarinin farklı dikis acilarında dikis mukavemeti uzerine etkileri. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 21(2), 182-188. 10. Xin LU. 2010. Effect of sewing form and parameters on seam strength of silk fabric. Shanghai Textile Science & Technology 5, 17. 11. Ozdemir H, Yavuzkasap D. 2012. The effects of yarn and fabric structural parameters on the seam slippage, abrasion and pilling properties of double woven upholstery fabrics. Industria Textila 63(6), 307-314. 12. Yeşilpınar S, Bahar S. 2007. The effect of sewing and washing processes on the seam strength of denim trousers. AATCC review 7(10), 27-31. 13. Yeşilpınar S. 2006. Analysis of the performance of sewing threads manufactured from conventional and compact ring-spun yarns. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 14(2), 20-23. 14. Gribaa S, Ben Amar S, Dogui A. 2006. Influence of sewing parameters upon the tensile behavior of textile assembly. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18 (4), 235-246. 15. Chowdhary U, Poynor D. 2006. Impact of stitch density on seam strength, seam elongation, and seam efficiency. International Journal of Consumer Studies 30(6), 561-568. 16. Tarafder N, Karmakar R, Mondal M. 2007. The effect of stitch density on seam performance of garments stitched from plain and twill fabrics. Man-Made Textiles in India 50(8), 298-302. 17. Mukhopadhyay A, Sikka M, Karmakar AK. 2004. Impact of laundering on the seam tensile properties of suiting fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 16(4), 394-403. 18. Ünal BZ, Baykal PD. 2018. Determining the effects of different sewing threads and different washing types on fabric tensile and sewing strength properties. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 28(1), 34-42. 19. Islam M, Sarker TR, Islam MJ, Siddque N. 2019. Comparative analysis of seam strength, seam slippage and seam efficiency of lapped seam and edge neatening seam. Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology 5(5), 665-670. 20. Ateş M, Gürarda A, Çeven EK. 2019. Investigation of seam performance of chain stitch and lockstitch used in denim trousers. Tekstil ve Mühendis 26(115), 263-270. 21. Khan MR, Rasel M, Das D. 2020. Effect of thread count and stitch density (SPI) on 2/1 twill woven fabric. International Journal of Science and Business 4(3), 37-45. 22. Fairhurst C. 2008. Advances in apparel production. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 23. Kara S. 2020. Comparison of sewn fabric bending rigidities obtained by heart loop method: Effects of different stitching types and seam directions. Industria Textila 71(2), 105-111. 24. Gurarda A. 2009. The effects of seam parameters on the stiffness of woven fabrics. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 19(3), 242-247. 25. Megeid ZA, Ezzat MM, Elzaki GM. 2016. Studying the bending stiffness of polyester/linen fabric seams with different structures. International Journal of ChemTech Research 9(4), 01-06. 26. Hu J. Chung S. 2000. Bending behavior of woven fabrics with vertical seams. Textile Research Journal 70(2), 148-153. 27. Chung S, Hu J, Lo M. 1999. Effect of seam allowance of a plain seam on bending of woven fabrics. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 3(1), 54-64. 28. Mahar TJ, Ajiki I, Postle R. 1989. Fabric mechanical and physical properties relevant to clothing manufacture- Part 2: Structural balance, breaking elongation and curvature of seams. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 1(2), 5-10. 29. Macit AŞ, Tiber B. 2017. Evaluation of bending rigidity behaviour of ultrasonic seaming on woven fabrics. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering 254(13), 132002, 1-6. 30. Gupta BS, Leek FJ, Barker RL, Buchanan DR, Little TJ. 1992. Directional variations in fabric properties and seam quality. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 4(2/3), 71-78. 31. Ghosh, TK, Zhou N. 2003. Characterization of fabric bending behavior: A review of measurement principles. Indian Jounal of Fibre and Textile Research 28, 471-476. 32. Sanad RA, Cassidy T. 2015. Fabric objective measurement and drape. Textile Progress 47(4), 317-406. 33. Kayseri GÖ, Özdil N, Mengüç GS. 2012. Sensorial comfort of textile materials. In HY Jeon (Ed.), Woven fabrics. Croatia: Intech, 235-66. 34. Abbott NJ. 1951. The measurement of stiffness in textile fabrics. Textile Research Journal 21(6), 435-441. 35. Hynek WJ, Winston G. 1953. A comparative study of the Tinius Olsen and Peirce stiffness testers. Textile Research Journal 23(10), 743-748. 36. Takatera M, Shinohara A. 1996. An analysis to compare conventional methods for estimating bending rigidity of fabrics. Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 42(3-4), 86-92. 37. Naujokaitytė L, Strazdienė E, Fridrichova L. 2007. Comparative analysis of fabrics' bending behavior testing methods. Tekstil: Journal of Textile & Clothing Technology, 56(6), 343-349. 38. Harrabi L, Dolez PI, Vu-Khanh T, Lara J, Tremblay G, Nadeau S, Larivière C. 2008. Characterization of protective gloves stiffness: Development of a multidirectional deformation test method. Safety Science 46(7), 1025-1036. 39. Sun MN. 2008. A new tester and method for measuring fabric stiffness and drape. Textile Research Journal 78(9), 761-770. 40. Goetzendorf-Grabowska B, Karaszewska A, Vlasenko VI, Arabuli AT. 2014. Bending stiffness of knitted fabrics–comparison of test methods. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 22, 1(103), 43-50. 41. Musa ABH, Malengier B, Van Langenhove L, Stevens C. 2017. The reliability of the newly developed bending tester for the measurement of flexural rigidity of textile materials. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering 254(14), 142004, 1-6. 42. Plaut RH. 2020. Determining effective bending stiffness of fabrics and other materials from tests involving an added weight. Textile Research Journal 90(1), 101-109. 43. Peirce FT. 1930. The “handle” of cloth as a measurable quantity. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions 21(9), T377-T416. 44. ASTM D1388-18. 2018. Standard test method for stiffness of fabrics. West Conshohocken: ASTM International. 45. Hu J. 2004. Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited. 46. ASTM D4032 – 08. 2016. Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabric by the Circular Bend Procedure. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited.
Toplam 1 adet kaynakça vardır.
Ayrıntılar
| Birincil Dil | İngilizce |
|---|---|
| Konular | Giyilebilir Malzemeler |
| Bölüm | Makaleler |
| Yazarlar | |
| Yayımlanma Tarihi | 30 Haziran 2021 |
| Gönderilme Tarihi | 4 Haziran 2020 |
| Kabul Tarihi | 30 Haziran 2021 |
| Yayımlandığı Sayı | Yıl 2021 Cilt: 31 Sayı: 2 |
